DAILY SPF: WHY IT’S A SKINCARE ESSENTIAL

Posted by Lucy Hitchcock on May 27, 2020

In the past, SPF meant applying a thick sunblock on our faces that we struggled to blend in and we relied on the minimal SPF in our make-up to give us protection against the sun.

However, in recent years, we have become accustomed to the long-term benefits of a good SPF.

But it’s not sunny where I live?

It is scientifically proven that we should be wearing a high factor sun protection, with at least an SPF 30 every day, rain or shine.

The sun does not need to be shining to incur damage on our skin as ultraviolet (UV) rays, that cause skin damage, are always present. To protect against both UVA and UVB rays, ensure you buy products that are labelled "broad spectrum".

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UVA and UVB : What’s the difference?

Firstly, let’s get to grips with the two different types of rays that we’re protecting ourselves against. UV rays are split into two categories: UVA and UVB. Once you understand why both types of rays are worth avoiding, the reason for daily use of a broad-spectrum sun protection should be clear.

ULTRAVIOLET A

Present all day, everyday, UVA rays make up an astonishing 95% of the UV light that reaches the earth, and in turn, our skin. The number one cause of wrinkles, dark spots and leathery looking (and feeling) complexions, UVA rays can penetrate the skin deeper than their UVB counterparts, making them a leading contributor to skin cancers. You can check a product’s UVA protection rating by the number of stars indicated on it’s label, ranging from 0-5; the higher the better.

Important to note, as they penetrate the lower layers of the epidermis where they trigger the production of melanin, UVA rays are the cause of tanning but NOT burning, so their effects are initially undetected on the skin – even more reason to ensure that you are always protected against them.

To those that work inside and think that sun damage doesn’t apply to their day-to-day life, UVA rays can penetrate glass, meaning that sitting next to a window makes you just as vulnerable to them as lying in the park. Liberally apply sun protection everyday to protect yourself.

ULTRAVIOLET B

They may not be as present as ultraviolet A rays, nor do they penetrate the skin as deeply, but UVB rays are to be taken seriously. Responsible for sore, hot-to-the-touch sunburn, which can lead to more common skin cancers, and visible changes to the skin’s textural surface, the SPF rating on your sunscreen relates to the protection it offers against ultraviolet B.

More prevalent in sunnier climes, UVB rays are also a greater risk at higher altitudes – which is why some people often return from skiing holidays with notably sunburnt faces.

Girl with glowing skin

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What does the SPF factor actually mean?

SPF translates to Sun Protection Factor. This is the numerical value that indicates the level of protection to the epidermis – the outer layer of the skin - that your chosen product will give you against UVB rays.

A minimum of SPF 30 is recommended for daily use and, especially when you’re actively seeking sun, you should keep yourself topped up by reapplying regularly as indicated on the product label.

Although no sun protection can block all UV rays, SPF 50 blocks up to 98% of rays, with about a 1% difference between the 97% blocked by factor 30. Prevention is better than cure and SPF is paramount when it comes to maintaining healthy, youthful skin.

What are CHEMICAL and PHYSICAL sun protection?

Chemical and physical based sun protection work in two different ways to protect against damage by the way they interact with UV light, altering your ability to tan.

Chemical based sunscreens, also known as organic SPFs, absorb UV rays and alter them before sun damage has a chance to occur, but won’t prevent the production of melanin - meaning you will still catch some summer colour. They also tend to be thinner formulas, sitting better under everyday make-up. Ingredients to look out for in this category include oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate and avobenzone.

On the other hand, physical or mineral versions, sometimes called in-organic or sun-blocks, stay on the top of the skin and deflect UV rays on approach. They tend to be thicker formulations, sometimes leaving a white cast on the skin, and use mineral-based ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Girl with sun on face

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I already get my SPF fix through my moisturiser and foundation, do I REALLY need a separate product?

Yes. When it comes to the SPF in your foundation, BB cream or moisturiser, you would have to apply a huge amount of the product to reap the benefits of it’s sun protection factor, which is highly unlikely. Adequate coverage is key when it comes to applying your SPF, so we say it’s always safer to opt for a separate product to address your sun protection needs.

With that in mind, the kind of SPF we’re talking about is formulated by skincare experts to be applied to your face, so it’s not the same as the kind you put on your body. With easy daily protection in mind, facial SPFs are commonly formulated to be quickly absorbed, ready for your make up to be applied promptly afterwards.

From a skincare perspective, the skin on your face tends to be more delicate and subject to greater irritation than that on your body, meaning those thicker, richer formulations you apply all over could be a major trigger for those susceptible to breakouts. Always keep an eye out for facial SPFs marked as “non-comedogenic” to avoid the further clogging of pores.

I already have SUPER oily skin; won’t adding a thick sun cream make my make-up slide straight off?

Sun protection has come a long way and formulations have improved over the years. Firstly, the skin on your face is different to your body, so treat it that way by avoiding applying the exact same SPF everywhere. There are so many different types of SPF on the market that sit well underneath make-up, from more traditional creams to light sprays.

Lots of high factor SPF tend to come in thicker formats, so if you have an oily complexion that is prone to blemishes and breakouts, opting for an oil-free version is a great alternative. On the other hand, if your skin is dry, go for a cream, lotion or gel-based SPF, whilst seeking out alcohol-free options to prevent further drying.

Through the development in our knowledge of SPF, skincare experts will agree that the needed effects come from a stand-alone product, and that the added SPF in your moisturiser, foundation or serum is not a sufficient solution. This does not stop them from being an excellent extra precaution, however make sure you use a high factor SPF only product in your daily routine too.

palm leaf shadows

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When in my routine should I apply my SPF?

As a rule, your SPF should be applied after your moisturiser, but before your make-up and ideally, SPF should be reapplied throughout the day. Options like mineral powders and sprays are easy to apply lightweight choices to keep your sun protection topped up, however it is important to make sure your application is thorough and consistent, or if in doubt, return to your regular, reliable format.

When using exfoliating acids to help your complexion, such as those found in our Radiance Ritual mask, your skin can become increasingly susceptible to ultraviolet rays. For this reason, always be extra liberal with your SPF application afterwards.

Remember, the best skin is always healthy skin, so make sure sun protection is the step you NEVER skip.

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