How To Create The Right Skincare Routine

Posted by Gemma Harling on May 22, 2020

When it comes to achieving your skin goals, having an effective regime is one of the best ways to maintain overall skin health, whilst helping your skin to age well further down the line.
With an overwhelming number of products on the market, knowing how to create a bespoke routine that works for you can seem overwhelming. To discover products that truly deliver every time, focus on science-backed ingredients which have been clinically proven to achieve an effect.
In this article, we will guide you through the vital steps to take when creating your bespoke skincare routine, and help guide you how to layer different skincare products in the correct order, for optimal effect. Despite the seemingly long list, simplicity is key, with the best routines using as few products as required.

Zahara Davis

@zaharaadavis

AM - MORNING SKIN ROUTINE

In the morning, the focus of your routine should be to cleanse away any dirt from overnight and to prepare it for the day by protecting the skin from the elements. Environmental aggressors such as pollutants and free-radicals, as well as UVA and UVB rays from the sun, are all known to increase skin ageing, and your morning routine should help defend skin against these factors.

STEP 1 - Cleanse

One of the most important steps in your routine is cleansing. It should be the first step in your AM routine and the first step in your PM routine. In the mornings, start by using a simple, gentle cleanser to remove any build-up of oil, dead skin cells or sweat from the night before. Alongside cleansing your skin, this also helps you prep for the following steps and allows for optimal absorption of any products you use next.

STEP 2 - Serum

Now it is time for the first layer of protection by using a serum. Think of serums as a concentrated cocktail of specific active ingredients for the skin, with you selecting whichever one best fits your needs.

Firstly, a Vitamin C serum should be a staple in everyone's routine. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that neutralises free-radicals (known to cause cellular damage and speed up the ageing process). Vitamin C also works to brighten the skin, fade hyperpigmentation & acne marks, whilst increasing the production of collagen and elastin, responsible for keeping the skin looking plump and super firm.

Packaging is key for this unstable ingredient. Look for Vitamin C serums in airless dispensers, or opaque/ dark glass bottles as it can begin to oxidise and degrade in the presence of light or air, and by doing so, will not work effectively.

Other types of popular serums might include hyaluronic acid, to deliver a potent hit of increased skin hydration, or a clarifying serum which might include ingredients such as salicylic acid or skin-strengthening niacinamide.

STEP 3 - Moisturise

Moisturisers help the outer layer of your skin to function properly by protecting it from irritants and inflammation, and also helps keep the deeper layers of skin hydrated by creating a barrier to lock water in.

This step applies to everyone, even if you have an oily or acne-prone skin type. Moisturisers play a huge role in maintaining skin health.

Key ingredients could include humectants, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, which are known to keep things feeling plump and reduce water loss from the skin throughout the day.

Skincare on bed

@skin.illustrated

STEP 4 - SPF

Using an SPF that offers both UVA and UVB protection in rain or shine is imperative to your skin ageing well. Formulations today are much more sophisticated these days and a lot of them sit well under makeup. UVA and UVB rays rapidly cause skin ageing, DNA damage and increase the risk of skin cancers. Always aim for an SPF of 30 or higher to ensure you are getting optimum protection and as a rule of thumb, treat your neck as an extension of your face when applying skincare.

Collection of skincare

@lauralawbeauty

PM - EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE

Evenings are a time when your skin is not having to defend itself against sunlight, dirt and pollution, which is the perfect opportunity for skin healing and rejuvenation.

STEP 1 - Cleanse

Start with a thorough cleanse to effectively remove SPF, makeup and build up of oil, pollution and debris. Follow with a second cleanse to deep clean, particularly important when using products like SPF in the day. A double cleanse also adds a little luxury to your routine, making it more of a ritual.

STEP 2 - Treatments

RETINOIDS

Retinoids, the gold standard in ageing well and should ideally be introduced into your routine in your twenties. Working to increase the rate of cell production and decrease the production of sebum, retinoids are hugely effective in tackling signs of ageing, hyperpigmentation and blemishes.
There are many different types and strengths of retinoids out there, but proceed with caution, as this wonder ingredient can also be highly sensitising if used incorrectly. Choose a product with a low dosage to start, and one suited to your needs, then use only a few times per week until your skin becomes accustomed to the effect. If you are concerned with irritation, you can dilute with a hydrating serum or moisturiser to act as a “buffer”.

A few super important points to note - it’s hugely important to wear SPF daily when using retinoids, as they increase skin’s sensitivity to sunlight due to the increased cell turnover which reveals fresher more delicate skin. Most importantly, retinoids are derived from Vitamin A and are therefore not suitable for those that are pregnant or breastfeeding.

On days when you aren’t using retinoids, you could look to use exfoliants such as AHA’s & BHA’s. We strongly advise against using them together due to the likelihood of irritation and compromising the skin's barrier.
This is when it would be perfect to use a treatment mask with active ingredients for targeted results. Our Radiance Ritual Glow Mask contains liquid exfoliants, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, squalane, prickly pear seed oil and Vitamin E to leave your complexion, hydrated and luminous.
Or you may wish to use an AHA or BHA toner, gently patted into the face with a cotton pad, for a quick application on the days you decide to not use the mask.

@redcharlottexo

STEP 3 - Serums

Similarly to your morning routine, you can use serums to customise your routine in the evening too, focusing on different active ingredients specific to your skin goals. Start gradually and build up with active ingredients to de-sensitise your skin.

Acne-prone? Opt for ingredients like salicylic acid or niacinamide 2-3 times a week to unclog pores and soothe blemishes.

Want to amp up brightness? Glycolic acid, azelaic acid or lactic acid will be sure to boost radiance and even texture.

In need of a dose of hydration? Look for serums rich in hyaluronic acid, ceramides and glycerine to quench thirsty complexions.

STEP 4 - Eye creams

You may choose to use a separate eye cream to your moisturiser as they are specifically formulated to absorb into the thinner, more delicate area of skin around your eyes, which typically ages more quickly than the rest of your face. If so, use it before moisturiser.

STEP 5 - Moisturise

Hydration is the final step in your evening routine and very important for all skin types.

When selecting a moisturiser, look for ones that include humectants such as glycerine and hyaluronic acid, and skin strengthening saviours like niacinamide and ceramides. These ingredients will benefit all skin types.

If your skin is on the drier side look for moisturisers rich with linoleic acids, a form of omega 6 fatty acid, including sunflower or safflower oils.

You may choose to use a facial oil and a moisturiser in the evenings, or perhaps find that just one is sufficient. Again, it’s all down to personal preference, and testing out different combinations to find the best method for your skin's needs.

If you do decide to use both, the order of application will depend on the thickness of the oil. If thin and serum-like, apply before. If you have opted for a thicker oil, use after moisturising to lock in all that dewiness. Facial oils are able to penetrate face creams, however - the same can’t be said if applied in the opposite order.

@studiobyher

WHICH ORDER SHOULD I APPLY MY SKINCARE PRODUCTS IN?

As a rule of thumb, products should be applied in order of thinnest consistency to thickest. We have outlined our perfect skin routine sequence below:

AM - MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE

Cleanse
Serum
(Eye cream - optional)
Moisturiser
SPF

PM - EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE

Cleanse
Treatments - Retinoids or exfoliants
Serums
Eye cream
Moisturiser and/ or facial oil

Our Radiance Ritual Mask has clinically-proven active ingredients and is the perfect addition to your skincare regime.

We’d love to see how you’re using it in your routine right now. Remember to tag @Luneia and #LuneiaMuse

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